Ho Chi Minh City, also known as Saigon, is frenetic Asian city of markets, street clogged with scooters, street side food stalls, as well as foreign restaurants office blocks and shopping malls. It is Vietnam’s economic powerhouse and the rate of the progress over the last few years has been remarkable. Saigon is and exciting and exotic city where the pace of life never dims and which is now looking forward with great optimism after its tumultuous 20th century.
Brief History
How things have changed from the sleepy days pre-16th century, when the Khmer fishing village of Prey Nokor was established on a vast swampland. Saigon's origins date back to the early 17th century when the area became home for refugees fleeing war in the north. Towards the end of the century, once the population was more Vietnamese and Cambodia weak enough, Vietnam annexed the territory. Over the following decades Prey Nokor developed into the Saigon the French found when they conquered the region in the mid 19th century.
Within a very short time the French began to leave their mark on the city and still today some of the best hotels in Saigon are within grandiose colonials overlooking gorgeous boulevards dating back to Saigon's heyday as the Paris of the Orient. For the French, Saigon became the capital of Cochin china -- an expansive region encompassing parts of modern-day Cambodia, Laos and Vietnam. Through the next 100 years, they extracted as much as they could from the region -- much of it passing through Saigon's ports. Often cruel and thoughtless, French rule remained over the city and Cochin china until their exit from Vietnam following their defeat at the Battle of Dien Bien Phu in 1954.
When the French opted out of Vietnam to avoid recognizing the communist victors, they left the south under the care of Emperor Bao Dai who had made his capital there in 1950. Subsequently, when Vietnam was officially partitioned, the southern government, led by Ngo Dinh Diem, kept the capital at Saigon. And there the southern capital remained - throughout the Topsy-Turvy period of the American war. Then, as America's role in Vietnam's pains drew to an end, Saigon swelled to the eyeballs with refugees fleeing troubles to the north - just as Prey Nokor once did.
When the South finally fell in 1975, what remained was a paltry shadow of its more grandiose days. Fittingly, the following year the city was renamed Ho Chi Minh City in honor of the late leader of North Vietnam, Ho Chi Minh.. Despite this, many still know the sprawling town as Saigon, and the name still refers to central District One.
The communist victory was followed by widespread repression and re-education. The economy buckled under a heavy hand from the north as entrepreneurial spirit was all but stamped out, and the Chinese trading class were particularly hard done by. Simultaneously, Saigon's elite and pretty much anyone else with the means did their best to get out of the country, and through the late 1970s and early 1980s, Vietnam's "boat people" were featured in media worldwide.
Through a policy of freeing up economic activity known as doi moi in the late 1980s and early 1990s, the economic leash was loosened and Saigon has never looked back. With a very young, increasingly well-educated population, the city has gone from strength to strength. Today, children of The Party slide through the heaving traffic in gleaming, chauffeur-driven Mercedes, and the general population looks more to neon shrines for direction than to Uncle Ho and the old guard.
Towering developments now pierce what was once a very low-key skyline. Five-star hotels and international shopping chains have replaced dowdy government guesthouses and empty shelves. Saigon has some of the best cuisine in the country, from cheap street eating to salubrious haute cuisine. A renewed interest in the arts has stimulated the art scene and many galleries and museums are slowly being spruced up. For a tourist there is a lot to do in Saigon.
And once you're done with the city, use it as a base to explore the surrounds -- head out to the tunnels at Cu Chi, the Cao Dai temple at Tay Ninh or jet off to the sublime Con Dao. Then there's the entire Mekong Delta to explore.
Airport: The international airport is Tan Son Nhat International Airport and is located 8 km from the capital city. You can exchange currency for your taxi fare at the airport, however, some drivers accept U.S. currency. The exchange rate is 19.500 to $1 U.S. Hire a metered taxi outside the terminal. The journey should cost roughly $6U.S. including toll fee.
Clothing: Lightweight cotton and linen clothing is advised all year round. Rainwear is advisable in any season.
Electricity:Electricity: 220V, 50 Hz AC (some 110V, 50HZ AC). Two-pin plugs are in use, however sockets are different from those found in most countries and an adapter socket may be needed. Outlets for 110 volts for small appliances are found in most hotels, anyway, it’s more convenient to have an adaptor on your own.
Health: A yellow fever certificate is required from travelers over one year of age arriving within 6 days of leaving or transiting countries with infected areas. For the latest immunization requirements please contact your GP.
Language: Vietnamese is a difficult language to learn, and Saigon dialect is way different from Hanoi or Hue or Hoi An dialects. Based on tonal variations, it is difficult for a short term traveler to speak easily. It comes from the Chinese, although the two languages have diverged. Vietnamese has six tones, so a word can be said six ways, imparting six different meanings. There are also regional variations, so what is polite in Saigon may be just the opposite in Hanoi. In the 17th century, Alexander de Rhodes. Jesuit scholar and missionary, created the Romanized script which was used only by the educated. In 1954, under Ho Chi Minh, the Romanized script became the official written script for the Vietnamese language. Today, English and French are the most common second languages in Vietnam, so someone is sure to help you out. And, even though it is a difficult language, give it a try. your efforts will be appreciated!
Opening Hours: Government sectors open from Mon to Fri, 7 am - 5 pm. Businesses work half the Saturday. Shops open everyday from dawn till midnight.
Tipping: If you are happy with services provided by your local guides and drivers, a tip, though not compulsory, is appropriate. While it may not be customary to you, it is of great significance to the people who will take care of you during your travels, it inspires excellent service, and is an entrenched feature of the tourism industry across destinations. Here are our suggestions;
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Meals (restaurants): the average amount is $1
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Guides: We recommend $2-$5 per day for local guides (depending on group size),
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Drivers: You will have a range of drivers on your trip. Some will be with you for a short journey while others may be with you for few days. We would recommend a higher tip for those more involved with the group however a base of $1 to $2 per day would be appropriate (depending on group size).
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Bellboy: the average amount is $1
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Chambermaid: the average amount is $1 per day. For larger groups and adventure trips you may want to increase this. But please remember that it’s totally up to you, these are guidelines only
Visa Requirements: Almost all visitors to Vietnam need a visa to enter the country, although some qualified exemptions apply for citizens of those countries with bilateral reciprocal agreements with Vietnam. Depending upon the nationality and passport of the applicant, a tourist visa may be granted for either a fifteen (15) or thirty (30) day stay in Vietnam. Click here for more details.
Best Buys:The list of bargains is endless, but to what your appetite, here are a few examples: Lacquer wear, silk sheets, silk shirts, t- shirts, coffee filters, ground coffee, tea, and table cloths, lacquer-ware, beaded bags, shoes, fake branded watches and fashion stuff and so much more!…
General: Post Office (Buu Dien): 2 Cong Xa Pari Dist 1, good for Int’l phone calls. Bank/Money Exchange: 15 A Le Loi, best rate for cash, traveler checks, cash advance. ANZ Bank 11 Me Linh Square Dist 1. ATM & Cash Advance, fees are high! HSBC: ATM near GPO, fees are high! Another ATM (24 hrs) on Pham Ngu Lao St. E-mail: In the lobby of the hotel or head to Pham Ngu Lao St.
Places to see
Jade Emperor Pagoda (73 Mai Thi Lu St, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City)
Set to the north of the botanical gardens on Nguyen Binh Khiem, the Jade Emperor Pagoda is easily Saigon's most atmospheric. If you've got time for just one pagoda, this should be the one. Constructed by the city's Cantonese community at the turn of the century, the Jade Emperor guards the entrance to heaven - deciding who gets in and who has to shuffle off to that less pleasant, far warmer place. His two companions, one with a lamp and the other with an axe, are there to help guide you in the right direction. These aren't the only deities here: you'll also find a fertility goddess, the Lord of Hell and even the Buddha of the future. The entire collection is somewhat of a fusion of Taoist, Buddhist and Confucian mythologies.
Notre Dame Cathedral (Nguyen Du St, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City)
Notre Dame Cathedral, near Saigon's GPO on the northern stretch of District One, was constructed from 1877 until 1883, though it wasn't consecrated until 1959. Le Place Pigneau de Behaine, the square in front of the cathedral, holds a beautiful statue of the Virgin Mary. If you pop inside, take a look at the funereal stones on the left upon entering. The exterior of the cathedral is a hit with Vietnamese weddings and that itself makes it worth visiting.
ReunificationPalace(106 Nguyen Du St, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City)
Opening Hours: Daily 07:30-11:00 & 13:00-16:00.
This building was originally known as the Presidential Palace or Independence Hall, and is a classic example of 1960's architecture. The original building was bombed in 1962 in an attempt by the South Vietnamese Air Force to assassinate President Diem. The assassination attempt failed, but the bombing damaged the building enough for Diem to order it torn down and built a new - not that he ever got to see the finished product as he was murdered before its completion. The Palace was completed in 1966 and merges classic 60's architecture with the principles of feng shui and Chinese calligraphy. The design of the building is said to represent the Chinese character Hung which means the nation to be prosperous forever.
It was here that Australian photo journalist Neil Davis took the photo of the NVA tank bursting through the gates of the palace as Saigon fell to the North Vietnamese - and barely a thing has been changed since. Walking the empty hallways and the maze-like bunker system in the basement is something you must not miss when visit this place. Reunification Hall is also linked to the Museum of Ho Chi Minh City by a series of underground tunnels and bunkers, though these are not open to the public. It was in these tunnels that Diem spent the last hours of his life before fleeing to Cha Tam Church in Cholon and his death.
WarRemnants Museum (28 Vo Van Tan St, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City)
Opening Hours: Daily 07:30-12:00 & 13:30-17:00.
This museum, dedicated to documenting the various alleged war crimes, is a must-see. Eventhough is quite a one-sided display, it brings you a more insightful look to the brutal war nearly 40 years ago.
The museum is oprganized into 5 different sections: Section 1 give out facts and figure, partially explain American involvement into South Vietnam and the war, and the participations of other countries with specific number of men, weapon, and money. Section 2 is an outstanding exhibition entitled Requiem, honoring the journalists who died during Vietnam's many conflicts. All the photos were taken by those who lost their lives - it is a particularly moving display, and the museum is worth visiting solely to see this, section 3 exhibit some images of war crime. Another section present children paintings to praise peace and friendship. There is also an area imitating the so called Tiger Cage which was built in Con Dao island to torture North Vietnamese political prisioners. There is also an important space to display images of the time when the whole world protesting the war in Vietnam, and another room featuring the grow of Vietnam since the end of the war, thus for those who do not want to see the unfavorable part, there are some nicer part of this museum to look at.
The museum is in the grounds of a French villa, and the building was formerly an office of the U.S. Information Service!
Le Duan Boulevard:Named after the former Secretary General of the Vietnam Workers Party, from 1959. The French lined the street with Tamarind trees.
Notre Dame Cathedral: Built 1877-1883. Gothic style, twin brick towers tipped with iron spires and flying buttresses, all the parts shipped out from France. Services: 6 on Sundays, and several during the week. Vietnam has the second largest Catholic minority in Asia, after the Philippines.
G.P.O:Built by the French in the late 1880’s. Note the ceiling designed by the Gustav Eiffel Co., and the original hand-painted pictures. Open 7:00am – 9:00pm.
Municipal Theatre: The Opera House, established by the French in 1898, was recently renovated.
Cholon:
The Chinatown of Ho Chi Minh City and means Big Market (Cho Lon). After the re-unification of Vietnam, many of the Chinese residents of Cholon fled the country due to persecution. Now as the Vietnamese economy booms, the Chinese Vietnamese are slowly returning, breathing life into what was once an electric section of Ho Chi Minh City. Not many travelers stay here but it is definitely worth a visit, if not to visit the lively markets then to see the pagodas, some of the best in town. Although not far from the hub of budget accommodation along Pham Ngu Lao Street, one of the best ways to visit the area is by cyclo.
Given the area is famed for its markets, there's no better place to start than the massive Binh Tay market - be sure to sample some of the terrific eateries on the ground floor in between your shopping and browsing. Be sure to visit some of the most interesting pagodas in Cholon area which includes Thien Hau Pagoda.
Dam Sen Theme Park and Water Park(Ong Ich Khiem, District 11, Ho Chi Minh City)
Dam Sen is about a 20-minute ride from the city centre, out in District 11. A combination of theme park and water park, it also houses a large boating lake in the middle. The theme park contains fairground rides including a big ferries wheel, and also a show featuring monkeys, bears and other animals that have been trained to perform to the kids. The water park has a lazy river, a wave pool, some tall, fast rides and tube rides. The best fun has to be watching the kids showing off on the death slide!
DiamondPlaza(34 Le Duan, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City)
On the fourth floor of HCMC's premier shopping centre, this entertainment complex boasts more than 20 bowling lanes, a room full of arcade machines and a snooker/pool area, as well as various food and drink venues. Travel up to the ninth floor to find the three-screen cinema.
Getting around
By taxi and rental car: Taxis are the most comfortable way of getting around, and not too expensive - about 14,000 dong for the first 1km, plus 12,000 dong per additional km. (Prices jumped about 30% in 2008 due to the soaring price of fuel but have since been reduced.) It's usually not hard to flag a taxi anywhere in the central city, though finding an available one in the rain or during peak hours can be difficult.
Taxi rates are not regulated by the city government, and each company sets its own fare structure, which changes from time to time. The market is fairly competitive, however, and the major companies all reasonably honest with similar rates. Major companies include: Vinasun (white and dark green), Mai Linh (various shades of white for a standard car, light green for a mini cab w/ cheaper rate, brown and silver,) Vinataxi (yellow and blue), Petrolimex (white with blue and orange) and Savico (blue). Hoang Long (green and yellow) charges similar fares for short trips, but is 10-20% higher for long trips. Some off-brand taxis, such as "Taxi-Meter," have faster meters, and are best avoided unless you are a regular and know them well. Drivers generally speak limited English and do not speak any other foreign languages, you should get your hotel to write the name and address of your destination in Vietnamese to show the taxi driver, and get your hotel's business card in case you get lost.
Keep your eyes open for this possible annoyance: when using the meter, some taxi drivers slow down on purpose to increase the price.
By motorbike: Motorbike taxis (xe ôm, literally hug-vehicle) are plentiful (get used to hearing "you want moto!?" everywhere), cheap, and are generally quite safe. As of 2007 all riders in Vietnam are now required to wear helmets, a rule that is strongly enforced. Make sure a driver supplies you with a helmet. If he doesn't - find another one, as you'll be the one stung for the fine.
By cyclo: A ride on a cyclo, which is sort of akin to a reverse tricycle with the passenger sitting in a front seat, through downtown HCMC is a great way to see the city the way the locals do. The sights, sounds, and smells are a large part of the excitement of the city, and are best experienced from the relaxed pace of a cyclo. A word of warning: be careful with cameras, purses and watches while cyclo riding as these items are easily stolen by motorbike riders.
For many reasons, not least because of government attempts to restrict cyclos on busy urban streets, this form of transportation is disappearing. At around 5USD/hr and because they are so slow, they can be a good choice for taking in the city. To avoid these problems, make sure you are clear on the price and destination upon departing.
By bus: Bright green public buses serve 150 routes throughout the city. You can find maps of the bus system across the street from Ben Thanh Market - just go into the waiting room to the desk in the middle. Cheap, safe and not too crowded either but only if you can find the right line. If you cannot find your way, ask the locals nicely, they will try their best to help. A piece of paper and marker pen may help to ease the conversation. Cheaper 5,000-15,000 dong and safer than many of the alternatives, the biggest problem is that when you get off the bus, you become a pedestrian (see below).
On foot: Traffic is made up of a staggering number of motorbikes and, since import duty was reduced upon Vietnam's joining of the WTO, an increasing number of private cars. However its exceptionally rare to see a motorbike of more than 150cc, and the traffic rarely gets above 20-30km/h in central areas.
However crossing the road in Saigon can be an extreme experience. The first time may be a little scary, after that you will get used to it quite quickly. If ever in doubt, Saigon's "Tourist Security" officers (guys in marked green uniforms) will happily help you across. A quicker way of getting across is to simply follow the lead of a local crossing the street.
However the true trick to crossing the road is to stay aware, and walk slowly and confidently. The motorbike riders are actually exceptionally good and will simply move to avoid you - just don't make any sudden lurches forwards, backwards, or stop for that matter! Just look for a gap or seam in the traffic, and begin a slow but steady movement. If you hear a beep coming your way it's likely a motorbike rider is about to enter your personal space. Be a alert and prepared to stop putting your foot forward until he passes.
The streets, sidewalks, and outdoor markets are covered by motorbikes, and not yet geared towards pedestrian traffic (although sidewalk clearing campaigns are now underway- many areas of the center are easy to negotiate as long as you keep your wits about you for speeding motorbikes). However walking along the edge of the road is easy enough. Any motorbikes behind you will generally beep at you to let you know they're there.
But there are some open sidewalks to walk safely on and just walking around the city helps you really get a taste of it. Seeing people cook on the side of the street and just standing watching traffic go by in awe is just as entertaining as anything.
Eating and drinkings
The Blue The Blue Ginger at 37 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia St, offers good Vietnamese food & service. Moderately priced. Pho 2000: just outside Ben Thanh Market, on the street corner, serves excellent noodle soups.
Santa Lucia at Nguyen Hue St has excellent Italian food, mid-priced. Sa Ma at 35 Dong Du St.is the best sandwich bar in town with yummy simple French food. Augustin (10 Nguyen Thiep) and offers French cuisine, fairly priced and with a good reputation. Ben Thanh Markets has lots of stalls with delicious, very cheap local fare. The Hoa Vien Brauhaus at 28 Mac Dinh Chi St, is a microbrewery, pub & restaurant offering Vietnamese & Western foods.
To sample fine Vietnamese cuisine in pleasant décor, try one of Hanoi’s upmarket restaurants, some housed in charmingly renovated colonial villas. Our favorites include Temple Club (Ton That Thiep) Lemon Grass (Dong Khoi), Vietnam House (Dong Khoi), Quan Ngon (Pasteur), Crown (Vo Van Tan).
Nighlife and entertainment
De Tham or Nguyen Thai Hoc is no dout the liveliest venues. Lots of bars and pubs can be found here with a wide range of price. However, our favourites include:
Allez Boo (187 Pham Ngu Lao, Ho Chi Minh City)
is a popular hangout for young travelers. Set up like a little bamboo beachfront bar draped with icicle lighting, the place has seen an upgrade in recent years and the outdoor seating area on either side of this corner bar is always full of fellow wanderers (you're sure to see a familiar face if you've taken any tours or traveled on the cafe buses).
Just down the street from Allez Boo are a few busy bars. 163 Cyclo Bar (163 Pham Ngu Lao St.; tel. 08/920-1567) and next door Lost in Saigon (169 Pham Ngu Lao St.; tel. 08/837-5185) both rock from 4pm until late, usually to 4 or 5am. The scene is a little seedy sometimes; hang on to your valuables (or leave them in a hotel safe). On De Tham Street, about 100m (328 ft.) off Pham Ngu Lao, you'll find a host of little cafes, restaurants, and bars.
Go2 Bar is Highly Recommended (187 De Tham St, Ho Chi Minh City)
Hours: 24 hours/ day
This bar is in the backpacker district but you'll find everyone from backpackers to businessmen in this place. Why? It's the only place serving alcohol 24 hours a day. The terrace spills onto the street and the party regularly rocks on until 4 or 6 in the morning.
Saigon Saigon (19 Lam Son, Ho Chi Minh City)
Hours Daily 11am until late
On the top floor of the old wing of the Caravelle Hotel, this very popular spot features live music (usually a Filipino cover band) and a terrific view from the balcony seating area. This is undoubtedly the most classic of Saigon experiences (journalists hung out here during the Vietnam War), with great views through heavy wooden shades and under slow-turning ceiling fans of Lam Son Square and the Opera House.
Q Bar (7 Cong Truong Lam Son, Ho Chi Minh City)
Set in the cool, labyrinthine basement of the central opera house is the town's hippest club. This funky catacomb has good music, cozy private nooks, and an eclectic mix of people. Bartenders aren't very good though; if you want a proper cocktail, you're better off at Xu
Weather in Ho Chi Minh City
The dry season is from December to June with March to May being particularly hot and humid. The temperature ranges from 27 to 30 Celsius. The wet season with short and heavy rain showers is from July to November.
