Republic of Laos
The French summarized the temperaments of their three Indochinese states with the pronouncement that "the Vietnamese plant the rice, the Cambodians watch it grow, and the Laotians listen to it grow.". Lao is a land of Buddhist traditions, where saffron-robed teens peek curiously out from wats (temples) and no one is in a hurry. And while being the world's most heavily bombed country hardly seems a ringing endorsement, World Heritage Luang Prabang's temples and mixed heritage soothe the soul, and Vientianne, the world's smallest capital, moves at the same serene pace as the Mekong river floating by its shores.
What to see
No trip to Laos would be complete without a stay in the peaceful town of Luang Prabang. Best known for its high concentration of Buddhist temples and serene location on the banks of Mekong, Luang Prabang was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1995. Of Laos’ many rivers, certainly the most notable is the Mekong. It runs from the north-west to the most southern tip of Laos, forming a natural border with Thailand. You could spend several days cruising the river, providing a great opportunity to see some of the more remote areas of the country, which are often inaccessible by road. The Plain of Jars in the north is also an interesting sight, the landscape being dotted with hundreds of mysterious and centuries-old stone jars.
When to go
Generally speaking, the best time to visit Laos is between November and March. During this time the country experiences the least amount of rainfall without becoming too hot.
Tourist visa
The 30-day tourist visa for Laos can be issued at some entry points, via a travel agency or through a Lao embassy or consulate. Via an embassy, the visa should cost between US$30 to US$37 depending on your nationality and the office you use. Some nationalities, notably ASEAN members, may get a visa-free stay -- check with a Lao consulate or embassy for the very latest information.
Visa on arrival is reliably available at most overland crossings between Thailand and Laos, including the Huay Xai, Vientiane, Savannakhet, Tha Khaek and Chong Mek entry points. It is also available at both Vientiane and Luang Prabang airports (US$37, cash only, one passport photo). It is available at the Boten crossing with China and at the main international crossings with Vietnam.
Visa on arrival is not available at the Paksan crossing, but it is now available at the popular southern crossing from Cambodia.
Extensions
Extending a tourist visa is straightforward and can be arranged at the immigration office in Vientiane. An extension costs US$2-3 per day depending on whether you handle it yourself or work through a travel agent. This means an extra 10 days will cost you $30.
Validity issues
All tourist visas are single-entry only. The visa sticker for visas issued from an embassy are full page, so bear that in mind if you do not have many pages left in your passport. If you want to stay in Laos longer than a month, it's no big deal to exit to Thailand and come back in on a new tourist visa for another 30 days.
Overstays
While it isn't a big deal to overstay a visa in Laos, at US$10 a day, it is expensive. If you're looking at an overstay of anything more than a couple of days, you're better off leaving on time and coming back on another visa.
Things to watch out for
If you get your visa beforehand from a Lao embassy, it should be valid for 30 days, but be wary of being stamped in for 15 days instead.
Departure tax
There is no departure tax if using a land crossing, though on weekends and evenings you may be required to pay a small "overtime fee", generally not more than $1. If you're flying out of Vientiane or Luang Prabang international airport, there is a departure tax of US$10, but as of early January 2009 this fee was being incorporated into the price of airline tickets, so there's no longer any need to pay in person at the airport
Getting around Laos
Small and mountainous, carved with strong flowing rivers and berated by annual monsoons, travelling in Laos is sure but slow. Don't be misled by short distances on Google Earth -- getting around in Laos takes time, and usually more than you may have planned. That said, while the transport network (aside from flying) is slow, it is comprehensive. So unless you're planning on visiting Hmong in the jungle around Long Tien, you should be able to get just about anywhere you want easily and affordably.
By Plane
There are two Lao airlines operating in Laos -- the larger national carrier, Lao Airlines and a small, quite new airline, Lao Air. The former flies both international and domestic routes, the latter domestic only.
If you plan to fly domestically, chances are you'll be on a Lao Airlines flight. Their domestic routes include:
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Vientiane - Luang Prabang - Vientiane
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Vientiane - Pakse - Vientiane
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Vientiane - Phonsavan - Vientiane
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Vientiane - Udomxai - Vientiane
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Vientiane - Huay Xai - Vientiane
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Vientiane - Luang Nam Tha - Vientiane
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Vientiane - Savannakhet - Vientiane
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Luang Prabang - Pakse - Luang Prabang
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Luang Prabang - Phonsavan - Luang Prabang
By Bus
Buses in Laos are slow -- very slow. They're slow for a number of reasons. They're slow because they're old, because the roads are narrow, because they stop very frequently to pick up passengers and because they stop all the time to let people pee. They are cheap though, so the adage that you get what you pay for certainly holds true here.
Minibuses also ply the more popular tourist legs, such as Vientiane to Vang Vieng and onwards to Luang Prabang, but the majority of routes are served by the larger, slower buses.
By Motorbike
Larger enduro-style dirt bikes can be hired long-term from some travel agents. Prices are reasonable, but be sure to carefully check the bike, and whatever you do, do not use the chain and padlock provided by the shop to lock up the bike at night -- use your own.
By Bicycle
Given how hilly Laos is, it is surprising just how popular the place is with cyclists. Most nearly every town in Laos will have some lodgings, so you shouldn't struggle for a room. Things to pack include a good supply of inner tubes and patch kits, and of course, your bike -- you will need to bring your own.
By Boat
As the road network has steadily improved, boat services have dropped off drastically as it is far cheaper to transport cargo, including people, by road. As it stands, the only boat routes still operating are those popular with tourists. The Huay Xai - Pak Beng - Luang Prabang trip, the Pak Tha - Luang Nam Tha route and the Luang Prabang - Nong Khiaw - Muang Khua - Hat Sa route are the most popular. Less so are Xieng Kok - Huay Xai and Sekong - Attapeu.
Despite the disappearing routes, travel by boat in Laos is highly recommended, even if your only option is the admittedly very crowded Huay Xai to Luang Prabang route.
Weather of Laos
Laos has two distinct seasons -- the wet and the dry. Dry season runs from November to April. November to February are cooler while March and April are blisteringly hot. April is the hottest month.
Wet season runs from May to October, though it may start a little early in a couple of Laos' northern provinces. August is the wettest month.
